Warsaw, Lublin

We have been in Lublin the last two days. We saw Majadenek concentration camp, Sobibor, and some of the old city.These past few days have been a torrid juxtaposition of emotions for me. I am often frustrated but interested in this society. Poland has carried on as if it never had a Jewish population. Antisemitism is vibrant and doing quite well. It is not uncommon to see paintings of Jewish men counting coins or dolls of Jewish rabbis clutching coins. These are Polish icons of fortune and good luck. Lublin is 3 hours south-east of Warsaw. Our driver made it in 2. We literally traveled 140km/hour down winding country roads. The Polish government has a limited concept or road maintenance. Several times we had close calls with Cows, tractors, and oncoming traffic. There are no real traffic laws. Poland has the highest number of traffic deaths in the EU and for good reason. These people cannot drive. Our driver was an interesting but nefarious character. He had the disposition of a Ukrainian mobster. He had lived in the US for 30 years yet had to suddenly return to Poland 3 years ago. My guess was his gambling habits had caught up with him. Other than this he was an extremely forceful and capable man. Later, after our trip to Majadenek concentration camp, he professed to us that is mother was Jewish. Her last name was Kauffman. In Poland, that is a very honest and sincere declaration as most people will shun you once they find out you are an ignominious Zhyd. Majdenek was a terrible but powerful place. Most of the original camp had been destroyed by the Russians but what was left was more than adequate at conveying the organization of the Nazi death machine. After we where driven back to our hotel in Lublin where we enjoyed a quiet, but hot evening.